Fireplaces have been around for quite some time. I know, I know, that's quite the bold opening statement, so just give me a minute. As I was saying, fireplaces have been around for a long time. The odds are good that you have either the traditional fireplace made of masonry, or it is what is known as a zero-clearance model. For this article, we'll talk traditional fireplaces.
There are three major components in this type of unit. First, you have the firebox, or where the fire is. Next you have the chimney system interior which is made of clay liners, and finally, the chimney exterior.
Now before you go any further, get a flashlight, a whisk broom or some other brush and go to the firebox. You'll also need to remove the grate (that's the metal basket that your wood rests upon). Ready? Now at the back or side portions of the floor you might find a metal door. This is called an ash dump or cleanout door. This is where you can sweep your charcoal into the ash pit. Some older fireplaces don't have this feature. If you do, clean it out on a regular basis. (Mind you, never use a rubber or plastic bucket when cleaning out hot coals. It will melt and you'll spread coals all over your floor as you frantically try to get out the door, with your better half reminding you why they are the better half.)
Next, on the walls or on the floor, look for a piece of metal that looks like it might slide back and forth. This is called a GAF air vent, and when open, it allows fresh air to go into your fireplace when burning. This should move freely.
Now, lay down on your back and look up into the chimney. Do you see a piece of flat metal that is hanging down? This is the damper handle, and it will open and close the damper.
Some of these haven't been used for so long that it might be really hard to move, but try it anyway. It should open and close the damper, which always needs to be fully open when the fireplace is in use, or closed to prevent cool or warm air from leaving the house when the fireplace is not in use. If it feels stuck, check the hinges to make certain that there is no creosote preventing it from moving, or that the metal isn't warped. Looks good but still won't move? If it has a hole on the bottom, then take a piece of metal, run it through the hole and push or pull with all your might. Still didn't budge, huh? Then take good aim and lovingly hit the sucker with your hammer! To increase your accuracy, tape a copy of your tax bill on it. You'll be amazed at how much this will help!
Now with your broom, clean the ashes away from the sides of the box and the floor, so that you can see the joint. Are there any gaps, or is the metal box split in any way? If it is, don't use it until you fill and repair those areas. Come into our office and we'll provide you with what you need to fix it.
Once again with your flashlight, look upwards into the chimney section. Notice how your box bends backwards? That's called the smoke shelf, and its purpose is to prevent cold air from rushing down your chimney. Reach over the shelf and check to see if there is any amount of creosote there. If there is, remove it.
Now, check the condition of the clay flue tiles from the firebox and the top of the chimney. There should be no cracked tiles. If there are, then call a chimney sweep to have it relined, as it is dangerous to use a damaged chimney. Also see if they are coated with a thick coating of creosote. If it is, then you need to sweep it, which is what we will talk about in detail next week. .
Finally, check the cap at the top of the chimney. This may be either mortar, concrete or even brick and it should be sealed around the chimney tile with no cracks. If it is, measure the depth of the crack and come on in so we can show you how to fix it.
Next week, more maintenance checks and sweeping your chimney. Until then, see ya.
Originally published in the Daily Courier December 30, 1999