First of all, select the area where you want to lay your brick pavers carefully. Because they are lightweight, compared to concrete or stepping-stones, they might have a tendency to move more because of tree roots, or especially gophers! Once you have your area selected, remove all grass, roots and anything else like that and dig down to a level and solid base. It might be a good idea to spray your ground with Round-Up or other grass and weed killer, Once that has been done, spread a covering of ground fabric over the area to be paved. This will allow for water drainage and will also prevent any grass and weeds from growing up through your patio area.
Once you have your area prepared, put down a good base using three-quarter-inch minus materials, and give yourself at least a two-inch solid base. This, of course, is done over your ground fabric. To check your level, use a 2x4 piece of lumber, and place a level on top of it. Spread your gravel around until it is level. Pack it down firmly, using a roller or monopod tamper that you can rent. Once that has been done and you are confident that your base is firm and level, put down one-inch (minimum) to two inches of sand, using either a plaster sand or a coarse concrete sand. Next, starting in the middle section of one end, begin placing your brick. If you are using a running bond pattern, where the bricks are staggered, you will need to cut some brick in half. To do this, buy a 7-inch carborendum masonry blade for your skill saw, or rent a masonry saw at your local rental yard, or purchase a four-inch thick brick chisel set and a 12-oz or a 16-oz masonry hammer. If you cut it with your skill saw, remember that brick is a very dense object, so don't force your blade through it, but let it cut at its own pace. A masonary saw that is rented should come with a diamond blade, but some yards charge you by how much of the blade you use, so again, don't force it through the brick, but just let it always cut at its own pace. Please wear a dust mask when you use either of these saws and have eye, ear, and hand protection at all times.
Remember we talked about the theme of your garden area and walkways? Do you want to have an old Victorian look? Then use the tumbled or used-looking brick pavers; and if you want a formal look, then use the solid red brick pavers. Now let's put this information to practical use, and we'll use my home as an example.
I have a large area that we use for barbecuing, dining and just plain sitting around. Trees surround the area and a rock wall borders one side. Now our home is an older home and we want an older, well-established look. Because I didn't want this to look formal, I used bricks that are not solid red in color, but instead I used a multicolored brick, one that will blend well with the rock around it and also one that the mud and dirt won't effect. Because I have a gradual slope, I had to build up one side of it with fill material. And because I wanted this to appear older before its time, I didn't pack the base down, but rather left it slightly uneven. Then I placed my brick on it, tamping it lightly enough to set it, but not making it a firm base. What this did over time is to create an uneven brick surface that looks like it had been around for years. To border it, I poured an edging of colored concrete. And voila! I have a new/old brick patio. Now this might not work for you, but maybe another method will, so we'll talk about that as well as how to install brick for your patio in next week's article. So, until then, see ya'!
Originally published in the Daily Courier July 6, 2000