The following questions are a result of conversations with people who have contacted our office with questions regarding waterproofing problems.
Q. My home has a basement where we are experiencing leaking and water coming up from the floor. What are our options at this point?
A. First of all, locate where the water is coming into the basement. Is it coming through the floor, or is it entering into the home by the joints where the wall and floor meet? Is it coming through the walls, or from over the top of the wall?
If it is coming through the floor, then locate and repair all cracks in the floor. Finally, seal the floor with a cementitious-based waterproofing product. Liquids generally won't help you with this type of problem. Thoroseal and Tegraproof are two very good products for this situation. It might be that there is simply too much water flow because of a high water table, and in this situation you will possibly need to consider either a sump pump, or some kind of an extravagant drain system.
If it is coming in at the cold joint, where the wall and floor meet, then seal the joint with either Sonoplug or some other type of hydraulic cement and then coat the wall and floor a minimum of 16 to 24 inches beyond the repair, up the wall and down the floor. Be prepared to extend the coating depending upon the water's reaction. (See past "Mr. Drip" articles for more information.)
If it is coming through the wall, then coat the wall with Thoroseal or an equal product.
If it is coming over the top of the wall, examine the drain system on the exterior of your home. It might also be that the dirt line has exceeded the masonry and the water is going over the sill plate. If this is the case, lower the dirt line to where your water proofing is.
Q. What are the white, green and black stains on my wall?
A. White usually is efflorescence, a reaction of water to the calcium within the cement used to make the concrete block, or in the grout. Health-wise, it is harmless, but it can prove to be harmful to your concrete surface. The way to stop it is to properly seal the masonry or concrete wall. Green is a moss/lichen/algae-like form, and is a sign that there is water present in your wall, and it is also somewhat active. Remove the moss/lichen/algae, you know--green stuff-and find where the water is coming from. Repair and seal the wall and keep an eye on it. It is your home's way of letting you know that there is a problem that needs to be addressed. Now if that stuff is black, then usually it means that there is too much humidity in the room. Purchase a de-humidifier as well as put some heat in there. If it shows up again, then increase heat and examine the wall for signs of water problems.
Q. Well, that's just fine and dandy to know what it is, but how do I clean it off?
A. You can clean the white stuff, or efflorescence, with a whisk broom. If that doesn't remove it all, then use a light solution of muratic acid. The green and black moss/lichen/algae will take several cleanings to remove all of the spores that are in the wall. You can safely plan on having to repeat those cleanings every 3 to 7 days for at least 3 times. You will use a light mixture of muratic acid, or preferably white vinegar mixed with water at a 1:1 ratio.
The best things to do in any type of situation where there are potential or known water problems, is to diagram your situation, both inside and outside, and show any leaks or suspected leaking areas, and bring them in to either office. If there are too many questions regarding your situation, then either Randy or myself will be scheduled to look at your home or business, and then we can give you recommendations at that time. Usually these are done at no charge. Call our office at 1-541-479-1323 in Grants Pass/Josephine County, or 1-541-773-4575 in Medford/Jackson County area. Next, I'm going to indulge myself on one of my favorite topics, the history of brick making and building restoration for masonry homes and businesses. Until then, see ya'!
Originally published in the Daily Courier Febuary 10, 2000